Johnboy GT

So I changed the handbrake cable from the lever to the t bar, adjusted my pistons out to provide friction on the rear discs, then went and tightened the adjuster on the lever. Handbrake for a start was bang on, took it for a run to bed the pads in and sure enough the handbrake needed re adjusting at the lever. Did that and it holds but it's not amazing. Dad had a corolla gti twin cam and he said it was exactly the same so aslong as it passes it's mot I wouldn't worry too much about it Colin John

Give me a PM bud if you want. Might be able to help you out with it. John

Just take it to a fabricator bud. I doubt it would cost that much tbh. John You'll need spacers to sit the shifter up a bit so it clears the tunnel aswell John

I never noticed any adjustment part on the tee bar underneath. I don't have any shims in any of mine Colin, that shouldn't matter though if you adjust the piston out so there's friction on the disc whilst the handbrake is down? John

Cut off the ball on the underside of the shifter and extend it and re weld the ball back on. Pretty sure that's all for shortening your throw dude. John

I'm sure I noticed that the bar on mine was lopsided when I put new cables on. I'll be under it again this week to replace the bar so I'll let you know what I find dude. John

This is where my caliper sits with the handbrake off bud. I took a photo of my adjuster at the handbrake. I'm pretty sure it's been cut. John

Question as I'm doing the same dude, was there much adjustment on your handbrake cable at the handbrake. My one had about 4 threads before it stripped itself. Waiting on a new one. Did you function the handbrake lever when you rebuilt your calipers to see if the piston pumped out? John

What's the purpose in crossing them over? John

Try shocking the nuts with a decent sized punch and hammer before slackening them. John

If you have a gauge on your fpr just check it whilst it's running. It will tell you what it's set to. John

Think I'd have one in 205 black. I'd have to look though dude John

I got a walbro pump off camskill. Can't say I've noticed it being particularly noisy. John

Toyota, Dingbro, Id Workz etc dude. Local motor factors. John

Your exhaust where it bolts to the downpipe may also need altering. I had to get my exhaust altered to fit my Race tech kit. John

Well I'm glad I'm not the only one that is experiencing that noise! Bring on running in and mapping John

Yup exactly the same as mine! I've checked all my ancillaries, valve clearances, pulleys, cam pre tension and it's still there. John

I have wieseco pistons with scat rods and I have a rattle as well dude. I've no idea what it is. Beginning to think it's just like that. John

I used a die grinder to buff away enough so the ARB didn't touch. Took it for a drive and there was no knocking. Spot on! John

When I fitted a decat to my GT it started Burning oil. It was the turbo in my case. John

I think they have a Starlet section mate. Sure they do come in starlet fitment. John

I bought my brother a skunk one from tegiwa for his type r but I can't remember what the weight was dude John

Going to try the idle control valve tonight just to rule it out. The tick increases with revs so I hadn't Tried it yet. Yeah I'm probably being paranoid. Cheers buddy John

Yeah buddy checked that, which hadn't been done but I did it last night and the noise is still there. I should really get gold of a local boy with a forged engine to see if it sounds similar. John

It's just because it's a newly built engine and I can't remember it ever doing it before it was rebuilt. Granted that was a long time. Just worried is all. Maybe it's meant to be like that. John