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Everything posted by AdamB
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Base fuel pressure is 2.3/2.4 bar. Are you sure you haven't popped off an intercooler hose? Thats what it sounds like to me.
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Lol not a chance mate, certainly wouldn't trust it being unbalanced. Owens will be your best bet, the guys down there are sound and their prices are very reasonable.
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The UK N/A ones are the same mate, get them from a local motor factors. It being a forged engine will make no difference unless its high compression which I doubt it is.
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Aye it can go anywhere really, closer to the cylinder head is better though but the stock sensors are shit and very very slow response.
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Just to add to this, those looking to understand more about cylinder heads and save you from burning a hole in your wallet and ending up with less power I would highly recommend a read of this book. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Build-Modify-Power-Cylinder-Speedpro/dp/1903706769
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Looking good mate! About time this happened. I would recommend 1000cc injectors as well, keeps the fuel pressure a bit lower and the ecu has more chance of controlling them, although you won't be able to do it on EMB. The ID1000's are around the £550 mark I believe, they are the 3sge ones.
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You can tell if its coming from the light cluster. If you look in the boot under where the light sits, you can see the rubber grommet, it kinda thins out to a point where it gets pushed through. Mine had water/droplets on the tip of this rubber. If its coming from the window area I would probably guess its a poor sealing rubber on the window, although I would expect the water to head down into the inner arch or the rear seat well if it was coming from there.
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Theres some rubber grommets behind the rear lights, its those that leak generally.
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Was you trying to shoe horn an aftermarket diff in an OEM LSD box?
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Yes mate you can put any diff you want in a Non lsd box. Apart from the OEM Viscous LSD that is.
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Get a grommet or weld it would be a best bet. I was going to weld up all the holes I had left over in the bay.
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Piece of cake mate. http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?84428-A-Guide-On-How-To-Remove-Air-Con-Evaporator-%28Pictures-Included%29 I removed the entire box though
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The parts are the same I believe, gears, synchro's, bearings etc. It's just the casing that's the biggest difference.
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Have to admit, the last few trips back from uni have got me raging! The problem I have is that people don't seem to understand roundabouts and just give way to the wrong side, so you end up sitting there waiting! Does my fucking tree in, and admittedly its men that do this as well as women!
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It was the HRF GT mate.
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Ah those grommets go directly to the top of the fuel tank, there are others which go to a second skin. I think the part number are these mate: Rear seat back stop button grommet - 72646‑10020‑B1
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I wouldn't go that high on a stock head for sure. 9:1 is ample enough for most people and will still be able to take a whack of boost depending on which turbo you run. The larger the turbo the more efficient its going to be meaning the more power made.
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What this man says! Although depending on the fuel you can get over there I would probably skim the head to about 34cc to raise the compression a bit more
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Did you torque the nut to the right spec? Over tightening will cause bearing issues.
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Brand new 450bhp Custom Garrett GT28 Turbo (SOLD!)
AdamB replied to AdamB's topic in Starlet Parts For Sale
Anyone? -
Bump
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It's basically a second skin to the shell, I had water in the front footwells in this second skin. I believe it's just used as a draining thing, if it was me I would personally drill small holes through them so that the water has somewhere to go as I noticed that water tends to sit there for quite a while. Drill a hole then find a grommet to fit back over them
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Any here who thinks electric cars are slow needs to think again
AdamB replied to b16a2's topic in Lifestyle General
I agree with this, it seems like a silly idea to me, I've always preferred the Hydrogen path but refining costs a lot and there's not many plants in the UK for it either. Thing is with EV's is that motors alone cost upwards of £4500, unless you take out something from like a fork lift truck, but even still they are only good enough for powering small lightweight vehicles. -
If the clearances are too tight the crank will need reground. If its too loose change the shells for a different size.