Calum122

I checked all the fuses and they have continuity. However I noticed there is no voltage across the fuses. What does this tell me? http://i.imgur.com/2KTOht8.jpg

So check the all the fuses under the bonnet.

Hi Guys, Could someone please tell me what components are necessary for a power steering delete conversion. I don't want to loop a PS rack I want to know what parts are necessary. There seems to be conflicting information about what is actually necessary components. Some say it's the rack and steering column, others say just the rack. Would this be enough for my EP82? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Steering-Rack-Toyota-Starlet-89-96-/172428310621?fits=Car+Make%3AToyota%7CModel%3AStarlet&hash=item282587385d:g:kisAAOSwB4NW0Lh0 Thanks

Yes.

Hi guys, Basically I thought it would be a nice idea to refresh my alternator bearings, and fit an ally pulley, which didn't fit, at the same time. However upon installation I find that it no longer wants to charge. It was charging fine before hand. There are a few caveats to this. When I was rebuilding the alternator, a mate of mine knocked over a tray full of bits. When I reinstalled the alternator, I omitted the plastic cup that sits on the threaded power out. This caused a lovely spark and started chewing up the terminals on the battery. Realising the error of my ways, I removed the alternator, refitted the cup then reinstalled it. Alas this is has not solved my problem. I figured I may have damaged the internals of the alternator, so I've replaced all the internals, except the bushes. I've just fired it up again and still not charging. The belt feels rather tight, although a nasty oil leak has developed and is kinda on the belt, but I can see the alternator spinning. I've checked the wire from the power to the fuse for continuity and I've also checked the fuse. All seems to be fine. The only thing I haven't yet tested is the plug wire for the alternator. When I had the alternator on th bench, I wanted to see if it was generating any current: https://youtu.be/e4_JnyW25Rs This is Micro Amps but it definitely seems to be responding. Is there something else I need to check to get this fixed? Thanks

So to reiterate what Socks said. Cams play a bigger role on na than turbos. And when you think of why this is, it's obvious. You swap the cams to alter the amount of fuel and air that enters into the combustion chamber. On a turbo car you simply turn the boost up. The same effect is made and it hasn't cost you a penny. Obviously when you reach the threshold of that turbi then you need to change tact. But ultimately the gains for the cost just aren't feasible. With an Na you are limited to tuning options cor cost. And cams then start to look like a reasonable alternative. I think you are bettee of sorting out the valve sizes first before cams. This will make it easier for the turbo gases to get into and out of the turbo charger. This makes spool and performance better.

MATE, respect to that. that's is a quality bit of engineering there! It looks right at home.

Yeah that's uber clean man!

Yes I did as a matter of fact Dan. I guess I never thought about taking it off... Can't see why this would make a difference though? I'm using a vacuum pump to remove the fluid, rather than pumping the pedal. But maybe I didn't. I will bleed all the corners. If I can sort this, then that would be really awesome. Cheers lads

To be honest, the thing tht's going to cause you grief is the fueling. A map is basically two parts, the ignition timing and the fueling. When runiing a TD04, where you need fueling most is where the ECU cuts out for a CT9 due to it running out of puff, or where the TD04 gets going. So a FPR can richen the mixture across the board, making it rich at low RPMs., but fine when you are nailing it. That's safe enough. My brother has ran tens of thousands of miles on his WEPR TD04 with a CT9 ECU and an FPR. The piggy back ECU's can only alter the timing so much, but can sort the fueling out across the board. Meaning that you can have the mixture right down through the rev range. But how you do it depends on how you are going to drive the car. if you are going to drive it like you stole it, then do it properly and go standalone and sort it all out. If you understand that it's a compromise and only nail it now and then and check AFR's, then the tried and tested method of richening the mixture using a FPR works.

Yeah they are cheap replicas, but they are still a good wheel. I made the mistake of buying Rota Grids thinking they were the beez neez, but that was before I knew the crack. They are still a nice wheel, just accept that they are copies.

Oh My. That GTR is stunning. Those wheels look the business en all!

Yeah that's interesting I am getting this problem after fitting new brakes. Seems to bleed fine, then once the engine is running the pedal goes all soft. I did notice I was using Brembo DOT 4, then saw the mastercylinder cap specify DOT3 but that shouldn't matter right. I have recently rebuilt the rear calipers and needed to put in a rear line. But I was sure to bleed these lines and test them before I started on the fronts. Do I need to go around each caliper even though I am only replacing the fronts.

Spot on Socks thanks

Jeez. Looks dope!

Ohh a Carbon Ducktail, that would be uber nice! A Carbon OEM replacements do top dollar for me, but I seem to be on my own in that category lol

Too right Stu *YAWN*

Smart that

That is lovely. You are buying a new car. For that sort of cash you could get a brand new Yaris. I know which one I would rather have

Yeah alright then, put my name down please Socks for Red - GT. Cheers.

Cool car, absolutely hideous though. Each to their own.

You do realise the horn is just a switch right? It's just completing the circuit, if there is a problem, it's not got anything to do with the wheel but the cables/Horn Button.

Mk1 Bumper IMO looks the best. In Fact Mk1 looks the best. I made a mistake buying a Mk3, even when a Mk1 was available within budget. Live and learn though hey.

Is absolutely stunning though.

merry christmas guys!