Stu

Theres a VS model but I think its only for the later shape, has a kit etc

If you use all the brackets from the quads then they will bolt in. You need to set a rivnut into the top cross member if you wanted to use the top stay. Wiring wise there is a guide floating around with a diagram. You do need to trim out the headlight surround to make them fit.

No worries. That's actually a pretty decent list. There's a few different sites around listing most common injectors.

Thanks Phil, I got fed up of seeing cracked stock manifolds and crap quality replacements so started making them for guys over here.

http://www.mastf.net/MASTFFPI/FaqSpecifications/FaqSpecifications10.html Press Cntrl+F, enter RX-7

Hey Del, wow that sounds rough! We don't get snow here in Auckland luckily. But when its warm is generally raining and when its clear is usually 0 degrees out... But i've been warming myself over the welder lately making these bloody things

Not alot to report as its winter and the weather sucks, but I took the car out for a drive to test some new rpm limiter settings. Gave the absolute death, a real hiding. And it loved it, no issues - win! Next good day I'll wind some more boost into it. /uselesspostwithnophotos

Yes you should use a sensor earth from the ecu. If you use a multimeter set to ohms you can work out what is what. Two of the pins will show a fixed resistance regardless of throttle position, these are the earth and 5v supply and it doesnt matter which was is which (assuming here that your Haltech software has a TPS calibration feature which will automatically adjust for the span). One of the other pins will show are varied output right across the span sweep - this is the output to the ecu. IDL pin isn't used. Hope this helps.

Check the BATT, +B and +B1 pins are getting 12v. The BATT pin should be constant (memory)

Yes the spark edge for them is Rising Edge not Falling Edge which is more conventional for Toyotas

Just use a multimeter to check for continuity from the dizzy plug to the ecu. Its the NE, G-, G1 and E21 pins from memory. You've checked the ecu is actually powered up?

TE1 and E1 is diagnostic mode but I can't remember if this fires up the fuel pump or not, if could be other pins How the fuel pump works is that the ecu sends a earth trigger to the circuit open relay when it senses the engine is turning (via the cam angle sensor). You can check that the earth trigger is working from the ecu by probing the FC pin and checking to a 12v source. If is working the fault is from the circuit open relay to the pump. If the earth trigger isn't working then pull the dizzy out and spin it by hand - you should hear the injectors tick. This tells you the ecu is powered up and is receiving the cam angle triggering. If the injectors are ticking but the trigger isnt working then its an ecu fault more than likely but to be honest I've never come across this as being the cause. If the injectors are not ticking then its likely to be a 12v feed issue - check there is 12v at the Batt, +B and +B1 pins on the ecu and the feed into the circuit open relay for starters.

Sorry, just read this again - this isn't right, the 12v feed is switched from the main efi relay (use the original coil power feed and split to the 4 COP's, the earth is a constant and should be earthed to the cylinder head/inlet earth point. It may pay to check your ecu documentation as this really should all be in there.

The trigger is from the ignition output channels from your ecu - I'm assuming you have at least two or it wont work

Thats not a skid! Sounds good thou

Skid vid or it didn't happen

GTX frame turbos are great! And that size is spot on Socks, just enough response and plenty of go.

Just weld it back together?

Shouldn't your Haltech need a variable style TPS not switched? Are you making a full custom loom? If you want to make it a bit easier you can wire into the factory loom at the ecu end then make minor loom changes for other features? I make looms both ways (modified existing or full custom from new wiring/plugs etc) but it depends on what you want to achieve.

Yep all good

Yeah so looking directly at either the wire side of the plug or into the plug socket in the coil itself. Did you want that dwell table?

Looking at the plug it should be (left to right) Trigger > Earth > 12v so the illustration above looks to be correct. Should suit K20/K24/F20C What are the wire colours?

Are you sure you have everything plugged in properly? The speedo drive is a bit tricky to get it clipped in properly. Any the low/high boost switch takes its earth via the boot gauge in the cluster so if the plug isn't in properly it wont activate high boost

Yes will fit fine. Ive converted from 4spd to 5spd heaps of times

Both of those amps are far too powerfull - you will find that even with them dialed right down you'll deafen yourself, that's the issue I have with mine and its only 15w.