Stu

If you wanted to try again with an electronic version you can use a bosch donut style knock sensor from a SR16/18/20 Nissan, a long shielded fly lead (shielding is important), a small 5-15w 12v amp (ebay/aliexpress) and a set of headphones. Works well.

The earth should come from the ecu as its a signal earth.

Can you not just run a gear on the front of the power steer pulley and a short belt to the turbo? That way you don't need to touch much at all - just make up a few brackets and oil lines and your away? Could swap the cog size to adjust turbo shaft rpm? Bit hard to make out the space available. Is the belt spinning in the right direction? /edit Lay off the beers Stu, I re read and it looks like thats what your doing. #commentfail

There's are a few differences but none of them are major - main one is that there is a neutral start switch circuit that runs to the auto box so it wont start in gear. Normally when converting to manual this is just bridged so the starter still triggers. Other than that Im not sure - I've only converted them to manual so have removed that section from the loom and haven't used one as an auto (I don't think I've ever driven an auto GT to be honest).

Its a modified ae111 box c56 for now. Im working towards a new diff which I will put back into the drag box and just swap back in in spring.

Thanks dude! Appreciate the feedback

So, its winter here and I've had so many other cars to work on that I haven't had any motivation for my own car - poor thing has sat neglected. New gearbox is in though, and its driving but haven't gone far as the weather has been too shit and its not that fun to drive in the rain (don't let this photo fool you - its been puking down rain lately). So that's about it for now.

Trisk, yes to a degree you are correct and it will run and I probably should have elaborated. With a variable unit you have better tunability for instances where there are low vac signals ie transitioning between vac and positive pressure. For example, in a NA application (yes I know this might not be the case here) when there is low vac it can be very difficult to tune effectively using map alone. This can depend on the ecu and its rpm/load resolution - Its been so long since Ive used an FC but I don't recall the load zones being able to be adjusted. Another example is for engines with quad

The 4 pin plug is for the trigger input wiring from the trigger wheels inside the distributor back to the ecu - the engine will definitely not run without this plugged in, and the wiring needs to be correct. They are not powered wires so you wont get any voltage from them. They supply a wave form back to the ecu when its turning over. The other wire is the coil power and coil negative (tacho signal) and you will get a 12v reading from this. With both plugs connected if you spin the dizzy by hand can you hear the fuel pump prime and the injectors click?

As above, you need a variable tps unit not the switch type standard one.

Fuel sender issue will likely be the sender itself - its semi common for corrosion to build on the resistor surfaces. Take the sender out of the tank and try to give it a clean, it may need replacing. Check that you the signal wire on the thermostat housing is actually plugged in. It should be the single pin plug next to the green ecu engine coolant sensor plug - dont confuse it with the single pin radiator fan plug however which is the one closest to the firewall when looking at the thermostat housing. You can test this by earthing the plug with a piece of wire etc, the temp gauge shou

Yes the atom is a great ecu - slightly limited on outputs but its still very capable - Ive set up ~8 of them now. Yes COP is easy - ign output to each coil and use a auxillary output to run the tacho, you just need to change the primary resistor in the tacho to make it work with a low level drive. The full tacho sweep on start up is pretty cool.

Sweet - let us know how it all goes I haven't had a Haltech come thru for a couple of years but would like to work on one again at some stage. The new motec units are awesome and I really rate the G4+ series Links - the new firmware is amazing, nothing comes close.

You can run most ecus on the stock cam angle sensor setup without any issues what so ever but obviously a crank pulley trigger setup is also a great setup. As above, follow the wiring details given with your chosen ecu as a guide is a great start. Can the 1000 version run the tacho using an auxillary ouput? Obviously with COP you don't have a high level drive required.

No problem. Thanks - ive got photos of more conversions somewhere but you get the idea. Can't remember if the Platinum Sport versions have dwell control tables but yell out if you need one

Black wire with gold dashes at the under dash plug is IGN- (Tacho)

^This.

NE is the 24tooth trigger wheel wheel, G1 can be used as sync. Ive converted quite a few 4e/5e's to COP but using mainly Link ecu's

Yep it fits just like a stock pump. Just need to cut and join on the new plug as its ever so slightly different.

Iridium's are not very forgiving if your fueling is not spot on. They are good for a standard car. 9 times out of 10 I setup cars with standard BKR7E plugs gapped to suit the boost the car is running (0.65 - 0.8mm). Have got a couple of customers running 20+psi on these with no issues what so ever and they're cheap too. If the burn is too hot you can go to 8's but its usually only a pretty serious setup that I would use them for.

Yep you don't want a 2way LSD in a FWD - decel cornering = spear off the road if your not careful.

Power to the coil?

No its all the ecu end, it sends the output.

The fuel pump relay is triggered when the ecu registers engine rotation (via the 24tooth trigger wheel in the dizzy) and it then supplies an earth to the circuit open relay from the FC pin. A couple of cars I've worked on had problems with the terminals in the dizzy plug so double check the plug terminals are connecting properly - you can adjust them tighter if your careful. Another check is (assuming the ecu is powered up correctly) if you pull the dizzy out and spin it by hand you should hear the injectors pulse. You can also put a multimeter between the FC pin and earth - there should be

Looks sick dude