federalman

It is indeed, however people on here had stated there were modifications required to it and to contact Tegiwa to find out what they were exactly. I however had limited success. Never mind, I have a MIG and TIG welder as well as a lathe so not really an issue. Would have been nice to have known what needed doing beforehand but there we go. When I have the thing I shall put up what mods need doing to it.

I emailed them regarding any modifications and this was the response; Hi Matt, The universal Harness Bar is here: http://www.tegiwaimports.com/tegiwa-universal-harness-bar.html If it requires modification please see the owners club on how to do this. Bit piss poor if you ask me but I require a harness bar and they sell them. It seems some of the staff could do with some customer service training however.

I'm running a td04 at .85 bar on stock injectors and stock ecu. I have an adjustable fuel pressure reg and a Quantum 340lph pump. Been running with no issues for about 6 years.

Could be a loose wire somewhere. i'd go through and solder the wires in if they aren't already. Failing that could be a faulty driver. Wouldn't mind knowing where to get a spare as I'm also running indiglo dials.

I've just fitted a Powerflex black series rear gearbox mount and I can't fault it. It rattles a bit on acceleration but i can't really notice anything other than a slight gearbox whine on the motorway. Going to be replacing the other two this weekend with black series. Engine seems to run considerably better now it doesn't jump around as much.

Not so sure it's fuel cut. Fuel cut tends to be pretty aggressive. As others have said take a look for the engine management light when it next happens.

Personally I'd replace the fuel pressure regulator anyway as I would imagine it's as old as the car. As to injectors I couldn't really say.

Yeh the a bar of boost kills 4efte's rumour isn't a rumour.

I'd clean the butterfly valve (next on my to do list) failing that give the idle control valve a clean. I did mine and it settled back down though I think i damaged the thin metal gasket type bit inside as mine started playing up again. I tend t o just adjust the idle screw and it settles back down again, though I tend to like mine to idle between 1000-1200,

I would think most of them would do. My Blitz FMIC fitted my ep91 with A/C only stripped it out a couple of years ago when I realised one of the hoses had split

Personally I'd get a full system, by the time you've got a back box made to fit you might as well just replace the old 20+ year old system with a stainless one. The car will breathe better and it'll sound nicer.

I'm inclined to go with 5E Colin, my 6 puck judders so I'd imagine it'll be a combination of aggressive clutch and an engine mount.

Third has crunched since I got the car 7 years ago, is the Redline MT90 the shockproof stuff? I had fifth go on me and there was absolutely no warning on it just all of a sudden came out of gear.

Mine runs fine without a lambda and its not been in there since I fitted the TD04, numbers are a bit sloppy on idle but on boost it runs fine but rather rich. PLugs look absolutely fine and I'd rather run rich than lean personally. From what I read the lambda is only really noted on idle, after that the map sensor takes over.

If you're still running the original and I would assume it is judging by it being the stock one I'd suggest changing the fuel pressure regulator. Failing that I'd take a look at the injectors.

The AEM wideband to as far as I know (I've run mine for about 6 years so the instructions went long ago) doesn't need calibrating. Mine since day one has given no reading when you let off and it does exactly the same in my Silvia. Seems to be running a bit rich with those numbers, though to be honest I've run a rising rate fuel pressure regulator for about the same amount of time as the TD04 and AEM wideband and get similar numbers on boost with no problems, plugs look fine every time I change them and the bores are fine. Personally with stock regulator and injectors I'd do as others have sugg

Oh sorry I didn't know you'd know more about my fuel economy than me. Hope you can accept my apology

As others have said: if you want a Sard which is fair enough buy what you want I know I do, but don't buy a copy. You end up with a whole world of hurt.

That is quite bad, and I don't run a lambda on mine! In all seriousness they aren't that economical with a TD04 or bigger.

Have a check the throttle isn't sticking open a touch, might be worth taking the throttle body off and giving it a clean. I know the 98 turbo has an idle screw covered by a little rubber plug that you can adjust. You can also try cleaning out the idle control valve that helped mine to stop the idle bouncing. Not sure on anything else, I'm currently experiencing the same but haven't yet had a change to clean the throttle body. It sits steady but sits quite high at times so if yours is doing the same I'm hedging a bet on it being throttle related.

I'll take a look at it when i get a chance. Can the cable be adjusted without adjusting the pair or is it only from the front? If the spring is fine of course.

Is there any kind of adjustment for the spring or just a case of replacing it?

tuning developments sell sard 550. I'd also change the fuel rail if its still running the stock one.

The tig welding on these is 2nd to none. Pretty quiet but has a nice note on idle, not too loud sat on the motorway but livens up on boost

You can either draw round the internal wastegate flap onto the turbine housing itself and port it so itll flow better, or fully weld roound the flap and get an external wastegate. If youve got a stainless or mild steel manifold already, you can modify it to fit an external wastegate and then get a piece of pipe for a screamer pipe. Personally I'd go for the 38mm Tial MVS v band. They're pricey but will last and if you can to another turbo you can still use it . It'll hold .8 bar all day long or you can use a lower spring and a boost controller.