nastyrash 2003

did u check oil presure fella, this is 1 very nice car ste, u the man. and i gess it was a cold day wen u started it up, thr is no blue smoke thr just white which is normal, but yes i do not spare oil wen building engines.

the way the breather circulates the hot crank case gasses is that the pcv valve sucks thm into the inlet from the top of the engine (breather outlet), but thr needs to be a flow to allow fresh air in and not create a vacum and case seal problems, thats wer the big port on top of the rocker cover coms in this is also y its plumbed into the turbo inlet to allow only filtered air into the engine. now with the outlet side of the breather being behind the throttle plate its subject to masive negative presure, this is a problem as if u put a catch can in it will causes an increase in negative pres

ilike fella. I LIKE ALOT. black gts rule.

thr are a very many different turbo set ups, plus u fail to mention supercharging, i have seen benafits from wrapping thw are very small. but every little helps. i think u are talking to genrally. most engines respond different to different mods, and this mod is so easy, plus the o/s rear wheel sits very close to the exhaust. 1 example i have personaly com across was a escort rs turbo that had uneven power delivery across all 4 cylinders and belive it or not a exhaust wrap almost sorted it. this was after the engine was pulled apart several times.

no mate, the engine is not breathing corretly, its block swet u suffering with trust me your catch can is plumbed in very wrong.

u sorted it yet ste,

same here i think more on a turbo.

sounds like engine not breathing right post a pic up of the way u have plumbed in your catch can, sound to me like internal swet.

get a hole saw for the drill and under the filter part of the box brill holes wer u can get to it from engine bay, thn use flxi air ducting heat resistan stuff, can get it off air conditioning sites, this will bring in cold air from the front of the car direct it at the holes, the key to this is to keep it as short as poss and limmet the bends try to keep thm under 45 deg. try to keep the intake of the feed up off the floor (dirty and damp air!!!). i would use a small bonnet scoop which sits fat like the fiest rs. and direct the cold air in from thr as the bonnet has a large surface area and

very tidy work ste, and feel that low down torque, removing the valve gide boss increases the volum of the port by quite a bit. get your injectors cleaned ste after about 60,000 miles all injectors start to drible. it cost around 15quid each.

thr are many reasons to rap a exhaust not just air flow, i have a front exit and the box iz very close to the o/s front brake and tyre so for this reason i wrap + air flow, but it also affects airo if the builder has gone all out on air dams and splitters and defusers. i think a full wrap can only benefit things to be honest. also helps the cat and lamba warm up faster and keep its heat wich aids fueling and ecomemy.

not bin on for a bit fella, and just looked your motor up to see how u getting on. and yep another fine glanza, top work liam.

yep as said above mate, cone filters are a bit of a gimik and cheap 1s do not filter very well either!!. go pannel and drill out the bottom of the air box + cold air feed

com on boys this is 1 of the cheapest easyest things to do and should be done as soon as, catch up lads!!. + a blanket for the turbo.

make sure you check you get the right throttle position sensor. either 3 pin or four pin mate, check urs.

it could be either the corrola 1st gen or turbo the corrola 1st gen is much smaller limiting the engine top end to around 88hp - the turbo is the biggest i think u want to go and need to go. this system would benafit from the stanard air box with high flow pannel filter.

;) this is awsom work mate this car will have a new lease of life.

need either the 1st gen corrola throle body restricting to 88hp or the turbo throttle body 150+ the later throttle body will not go on to the earlier stuff, need the turbo throttle body micky.

121mm from the base of the actuator to the stud that goes into the waste gate arm is 14.5psi (1bar) i think 125mm is standard booste but check this the figures are on the site some wer, that is for a HKS. just pull the arm to slot in if the measurments are correct.

i have read these have a better epram map on the standard starlet mate good news wat colour are your injectors and wat exhaust mani is on this lee.

lol, talk about the long way round fella. just take it off the n/a throttle boby and leave it pluged in and tie it up som wer in the engine bay does not need to be in the inlet. thr is a idle screw in the top of the glanza throttle body and a thermostate conrole valve under the throttle boby. if u got this off redz i set it up so should be set at 1000rpm. be very care full not to mix up the water pipes and vac pipes as it will smoke like a bitch, aint that right lee. if u need help locating the correct pipes just ask lukep he has 1 in bits removing the hot idle control off the glanza throttle

AMAZING motor si, very neat work. am getting turned on baby. xx

feeling the lov thr fella, 5e yuummmmm, a man after my own hart keep it coming.

me please, and 1 of thm hoodies o please bro.

lov this car, and it just gets better.