daniel_g

The head bolts are straight fit. Its the head studs that require machine work.

I dont think there would be much room. I changed to a side exit on my 85. Chances are you could get a 2.5" to tuck over it but you would have to get an exhaust shop to make up a really tight downpipe.

Used to run an adjustable whiteline one, set it to the stiffest setting. Was good. Bur corroded very quickly. If i was getting one for my current car, it would be the thickest ultra racing one. Believe they are dearer, but better quality. Have one of their 4 point underbraces and its mint.

9k is the highest ive seen. What parts do you plan on using?

600 or there abouts it is extra for decent rods and pistons. Speedvision rods are 200 on ebay, and are actually very good, despite the fact theyre from Shenzen province. Then keep an aye out for pistons, got my Wiseco flat tops brand new from a dude in Texas for 400 shipped.

You could check the throttle cable has the correct tension, its 12mm nuts on a bracket on the throttle body. These timing belts are easy, would be hard to set the timing a tooth out. That would affect performance. Check the ignition timing with a timing light. Should be 10BTDC.

He might mean ignition timing

What turbo do you use? Thats good power for the boost pressure!

Yeah man i did save money. Well it wasnt just about cash, i wanted to spec the engine how i wanted it. Using flat top Wiseco pistons, 0.5mm headgasket, ARP head studs, mild port cylinder head. If you look at a 'stage 3' TD engine that costs £3200 plus delivery. The way i did it, got an engine spec i wanted. There is still a lot i can do in terms of cylinder head work. All in, my engine cost under £2400. Half of that was machine shop labour. Because i wanted headstuds and a bit of headwork. Phone up TD and say you want to add some a

Return trip of 3 year later if its goin to TD :D

^

You will need uprated valve springs at a minimum aswell. Ivan Tighe do starlet camshafts, to pretty much any spec. Check out this site, some of this the 4age 16v stuff is supposed to fit a 4e. http://www.ipg-supertech.com/Toyota/

WRX TD04, has been rebuild by Midland turbo, then sent back down again to be refreshed and then upgraded with a billet compressor wheel. 2 rebuilds in total was over 800 quid! All seals, bearings, shaft etc done twice. Was infomed by Midland that 300bhp at approx 1.3 / 4 bar easy. Welded for EWG, and rotated for topmount but very easy to spin around, i can do this for you before sale. Now, i only ever ran this at 0.6 bar! That was on a brand new rebuilt engine, with about half a dozen oil changes! Hardly done any miles, 2k tops in

Could always send a spare auto box of to a specialist and see what they can do internally.

Only other pic i have dude. Mine are nowhere near the cams.

The previous owner did it. Aye good one mate. Fuckin shame, zero silver GTs about these days. Thats now a 1k car.

Its no hassle really, drop out the bottom onto a pallet with the gearbox still attached. Only really use a crane to lift the car up enough to slide the lot forward.

Its all about handling dude. Glad you are ok. These motors are tin cans.

Which choice of ratios did ya go for dude?

Dont go breaking this one zoid boy

Yeah for sure. This car has been passed about, been on ebay loads over the years. Search Limited in this forum you will find some old owners threads.

If i remember rightly, this car is a MK2 GT Limited. Genuine two tone.

Big Faiyaz up there thought he might!

ARP headbolts are proven to go to 420bhp + and over 2bar of boost on a couple cars on here, before lifting the head slightly. So nothing wrong with them at all. I went for the 4AGE ARP headstuds when getting my engine built mainly because i have a habbit of blowing up engines. So need as bomb proof as possible. Had ARP main studs fitted aswell. They are straight fit.

No idea dude. Machine shop job.