JayJ

What's the width of the wheels? 195/45, 195/50, 205/45, 205/50 should be spot on depending on use and how comfy you want it to be.

No real difference, just a different name I think. Locking nuts usually require a special adapter socket to fit or remove the nuts.

Haha! So there's no need to buy JDM wheels anymore, because when you are washing your car your forged wheels will turn to cast made Rotas, just watch the forging go down the drain

Personal Grinta Because genuine item

If you have paid the tax and sell the car, the extra tax is refunded back to you in here. The new owner has responsibility to register and tax the car in 7days from the date of purchase, if he won't do it the car will be illegal.

You need to make inj and ign map for road use, then affiliate these maps with ie. dip switches 1&2. Then make inj and ign map for racing and affiliate these maps with dip switches 3&4. When you want to use road map just put switches 1&2 on and when you want racing mode switch them off and 3&4 on.

High idle just after the start up is normal as the ECU has three states when starting up: after start enrichment, warm up enrichment and open loop. ECU turns after start enrichment off when water temp reaches 36c and warm up enrichment off at 68c. Probably your ICV is dirty or broken. You can open it carefully and clean, but if the copper ring is broken and diaphragm is floating on it's own it won't work as it should and cause high or unsteady idle. A brand new ICV solved my issues, but it cost ~130eur from Toyota.

Dip switches activate specific fuel and ignition maps and accessory ports. you can set them use from parameters.

As Morgey and Stu said, it's nice someone is trying to hack the ecu again, but don't get your hopes up too high as the odds aren't in our favor. A few facts that have been found earlier: The Toyota ECU, according to its own documents works on a formula basis. It's suspected that this is to stop people from screwing around with your car. This is also why you need to reset your ECU after each modification for maximum and speedy results. The Toyota ECU uses a formula based on one map and the ECU only has one filled in table, the others are blank. As you drive the car populates these cells. As a matter of fact, if you reset the ECU and make the car cycle for about ten minutes, it will fill the cells within the optimum setting. Most of the aftermarket ECUs use a daughterboard, there are a few exceptions like the TOM's and the PowerFC. The original theory that the stock ECU is used until certain parameters are met then a switch over to the daughterboard is incorrect. The stock ECU is completely out of the picture at least in the case of the JAM ECU. The daughterboard runs the whole show. The data on the EPROM is encrypted and a chip on the other side of the daughterboard decrypts it before passing it to the processor. Therefore reading the EPROM is a useless endeavor. This is obviously to ensure that JDM rivals don't simply load up and copy their chips. Tectom seems to be the only non-factory thing capable of reading the Toyota factory ECU, but they no longer make such a system due to pressure from Toyota. The Toyota ECU cannot be hacked its just simply read and dumped to another system which can be modified. Toyota JDM tuners go through nuff measures to keep their chips safe.

Maybe this helps..

Haha actually I paid 16euros, so it was more than 10£. I use my car daily and it can be really dark in here during the winter, so really was worth it.

SV8,5 30mm edit: I've this

Def JAM one. I had one too and apparently sold it too cheap ;)

Damn I want this, but have no money and I can imagine shipping costs being absurd

Main reasons for the diffrent chatter sound is that diesel motors have lower rev range, colder exhaust gases, lower turbo spin speed and no back pressure on throttle close.

I'm with Russ and Mikey. You should check Racetech's new CT9 hybrids as they are outputting TD04 power with faster spool.

Hybrid ct9 usually has bigger inlet(55mm) and bigger compressor wheel, bigger wastegate port and maybe different turbine wheel. Also turbine housing might have been ported. Play in the turbo means the play on the turbine - compressor wheel shaft. You can test the play by moving the compressor wheel up and down and back and forth. There shouldn't be a lot of play. If you need turbo repairs just contact Liam D on this forum.

H3C, they are expensive and hard to find bulbs. You can use H3 too with a small mod.

OS Giken twin plate(ts serie). I don't have personal experience, but should do its job ;)

JDM shit, don't sell! Edit: APP (Aviation Performance Products) produces high quality braking components such as brake hoses, brake fluids, brake discs, oil coolers and other cooling and braking related components for cars. Based in Japan, they collaborate with Goodridge to produce stainless steel braided brake hoses which they mention that under hard driving and extreme hard braking conditions such as circuit driving, the OEM rubber hose will expand causing brake pedal feeling to fade. This is due to loss of pressure from the rubber brake hoses. With APP Brake Lines, you can maintain the effectiveness of your brakes.

No filter in my V, bigger pic

No, you can get it work with earlier versions too

Plate type all the way, it has direct engagement when power is applied. The Torsen type must have slippage in order for it to engage both wheels

Check the map sensor wiring/plug if it's loose. Sounds like a wiring problem, if the code comes randomly.

Am I right that Glanzas don't have these?