Calum122

Photos look great bud

I shouldn't think getting the parts will be difficult. It'll be labour that will cost you. Don't worry about the spares though, I can't see the N/A's being too different.

As said, I don't know how this part of the drive train actually works. I've been working a lot with spiders recently and they were properly pressed in. But you sound like you have more knowledge than i

See I know nothing of the part of the drive train, but this is why I wanted an image. Those spiders are pressed it seriously hard. By the looks of it, the spider, whilst now unusable, is still intact. So if that's still intact. then it would have been the thing that is held in by that broke, not the driveshaft. Although you will want a new spider. Unfortunately, this doesn't look like a thing that simply happens overnight. There probably would have been some sort of knocking noise or play before this occurred. You can see from the state of the lower arms that the s

Jesus! That's either very bad luck or someone didn't put the roll pin back in properly. Do driveshafts even do this? Get some photos up buddy so we can help assess the damage.

If you find yourself struggling, always worth pinging Jay from TGTT a message. He's from your way and tends to have lots of parts. Might be worth a shot.

That's absolutely lovely bud!

That's absolutely lovely that!

That's a really tidy V bud :D

Big difference that is, difference between an EP8X and EP9X Hello and welcome

Looking great bud, even if I do think it's criminal to remove the more than capable B16. Can't knock the craftsmanship involved.

You made your own rear disc? Looking really nice bud!

Probably the best way to do it mate. Go find a car, should be plenty PS setups, and take everything you need in one go.

I have the rack as well. I just need to make sure my conversion actually works. Which means jacking the car up and tightening the bolts. Preferably a test run but the hasn't moved for years. The pump, brackets etc are all boxed up ready to be shipped. But I need to hang onto the rack for a little while.

I have most of this bud from my GT. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263391898286?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Yeah an engine light would go on if the oil goes too low. But if the bulbs gone then you wouldn't have noticed.

Oh ryt, cool. Makes it interesting.

I think 800 is very achievable. Although the GT's are lighter, with the Air Con Removed, half rad, any extra seats any unnecessary interior, you'd pretty much be there.

I wouldn't mind getting one of these in the future, if you could let me know what you had to do, that would be smashing. I imagine it's just some shims either side to be fair.

I think it's a joke....As far as I am aware, the only components you can get that are forged for these engines are the rods and pistons. So you'll still be running a cast crank, cams etc... I think the term fully forged has a stigma attached to it.

Plus they can still be bought new online.

Pretty sure it's the glass that weighs the most. Besides, these cars need the weight at the rear end to balance them out a bit more. That said, I would love a carbon boot, so long as the glass can be fitted.

Idle control valve to the vaccuum? You can get away with just disassembling them and cleaning them, but to be fair, not needed for an MOT anyway, just makes it harder to start in the colder climates, but could unplug it for the MOT and worry about it later. Great work on this by the way.

I've had similar flaws in my 4e head and have had that running absolutely fine. So long as there is a clear gap between the water jacket, the head and the gasket, it should be fine.

Absolutely savage. Looks great!