Stu
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Everything posted by Stu
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If your running an aftermarket ecu then the stock 24tooth and sync triggers are fine for COP. If you don't have 4 ignition drives available you can wire them to run as wasted spark - your still benefitting from strong spark and less moving parts. I've heard that some ecu's with slower chips actually revert to wasted spark at higher rpm anyway just like a lot of sequential injection setups revert to grouped at higher rpm
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Rolled it out of the garage today while packing to move house - sooooo want to be working on it but that is having to wait till we are into our new house (next Friday) /useless update
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Yeah run till death - slap 6 speed in if its spare
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Yep, blacktops like throwing a leg out of bed. If you really want to rev it then silvertop rods are good insurance. They seam to hold together much better with short service intervals. I've seen a few with ventilation ports in the side of the block and the common theme was lots of revs and not wonderful servicing
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Nangkangs are pretty good tires, I used to run NS1's and 2's years ago - they actually get a bit better once you've worn them in
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As long as the tollerances are ok you should be fine swapping in another crank.
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You can work them out with a multi meter too. Two of the terminals will show a fixed resistance as the tps is moved - there will be the 5v feed (yellow/red line) from the ecu and signal earth (it doesn't matter which way around). The other is then the signal to the ecu (green/pink line)
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A narrow band will tell you if its running rich or lean either side of stoich but it wont tell you how much where as a wide band will. As above, the narrow band only really come into play in the idle/cruise section of the map as on boost the AFR's are always lower than stoich (well should be) Without a narrow band the stock ecu just throws alittle more fuel adjustment in
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No problem Could probably draw up a cut file for you if you get stuck
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Here's a couple of photos of the deflector for you. Could obviously make this bigger with some wings folded up each end to help reduce stones bouncing up there
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Yeah, most of ours are shit stonechip that wrecks paint real quick haha
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There's a couple of guys over here not running filters but they have made up a shield under the throttles so nothing can flick up and get sucked in
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Cool! Dependant on how much space you have between the engine and the firewall you can also play around with trumpet lengths
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Sorry dude I haven't read it your whole thread but are you running a TRD head gasket? Could look at shaving a touch off the head to raise the compression, especially if your going to run an aftermarket ecu?
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^like
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Could you just get some laser cut from steel? I have EP71 top hats on file if you want to use as a guide?
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Nice!
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Not alot has been happening I'm afraid - we are buying a new house so have been spending most available time making touch ups on our current place. The rear turrets are all done now and I've trimmed and refitted the plastic interior covers - looks good. Will take some photos when I get a chance later this week. For now just a quick photo of the rear. There is plenty of height adjustment still available but may need to make adjustable arms to push the wheels back 20mm or so. Not a priority now anyway, will raise it up to a respectable height and focus on other stuff.
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Take a photo or two if you can, will help us spot it for you
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Sweet colour!!!
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The radiator fan plug is usually run from the same loom as the headlights and its a two pin plug. Its usually easily spotted as its got large diameter cabling.
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Yeah will work fine. Just be a little conservative with the base timing, drop it back to say base 6.
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Hahaha awesome
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You should try to find a SI grill to fill the hole in between the bumper and the lower valence, then leave as is. Looks great!
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Sweet car! Good luck with the conversion. Ive had a heap of 71s over the years and love them. Almost tempted to build another as a daily
