Sam44

looking forward to this.

welcome buddy, great bunch of owners on here, looking forward to your build.

does look smart. what engine mods does it have. im reading threw the build now.

im here. you can message me if you need to anytime. i will reply. i can talk you threw most repairs/mods.

afternoon Frankie. im just on my way back to the uk now. I will comment soon. great to see that box of goodness has turned up. take it slow.

oooohhhhhh yeh I was looking at as many dyno graphs as i could get my hands on and the power inlet (GEN1 4EFE/4EFTE) is by far the best option for a none turbo build, the torque drop/impact of the tubular rolla unit is awful and right in the power band part of the rpm (when you would normaly shift gear). the peak torque difference also is impressive. i was speaking with a older member ho was one of the first to run it (power inlet) and he described the WOT switch impact of the 4efte throttle on the uk ep91 4efe ems as "T" TECH (a play on hondas "V" TECH) this is because of the additio

how is everyone. im finally on my way home after nearly nine months away. this which was originally planned to be two months just as the second covid wave hit. im not going to lie the hardest part has been the weather in sub zero temps alot of the time with limited light hours. also not having my family and friends close by. i would like to say a big thank you to ukso for helping me threw it. now onto the motor sport. waw such good/amazing racing. here is some facts about the last two races to help you understand what went wrong. How Mercedes Secret System Cost Lewis th

Thermostat temps are primarily aimed at in cab heat/comfort/deforsting. Best power is normally produced around 60 to 70deg block temps. Which is to low to defrost the screen. The fan is primarily used for low speed or static temps reduction. Block pressure packs water molecules closer together this improves heat transfer from the cylinders mainly the 4efe cast iron top ring which will reduce wear with it being boosted. pressure also stops bubbles forming on the water jacket side of the cylinder walls. when this happens the bubbles/air gap forms an insulation stopping he

i was watching some rally stuff and came across this. The Tragic Story of Rally's Most Fearless Driver - YouTube

haha. great pictures. starlet heaven.

i didnt know there were two different compounds. thanks.

yep water/liquid on the exchanger surface aids convection/heat transfer. also the space at the rear needs to be relatively low pressure/largish. heat ex changers are a big part of my work. one of the down sides is the effects on gearbox oil temp and air charge temps. ive opted to run a lower temp thermostat as well as improve heat transfer from the piston crown threw the cylinder bores by increasing/maintaining great engine block coolant pressure. over 30 psi threw out the rpm range. 78deg thermostat off the 5efe paseo give good in cab heating. as well as improves engine p

i did the same recently and went from superpro bushings to powerflex. it was a mistake the superpro bushings are better, stiffer, less suspension deflection. i guess the reason for the powerflex bushings being so soft is to help ride noise/comfort.

waw what a great thread/build. i was looking at these secrets you mention in your build, i was expecting the 4efe gen1 4efte power inlet manifold, but noticed that on your latest pictures you are on the 4efe gen2 ep91 uk manifold. i was wondering has this always been the case. reading your thread there are all the starlet greats replaying and getting involved in there. good to see you back on here.

great build. and nice turbo setup. im going to do the same turbo on the 5e none forged paseo ive just got. only running it at 10psi. using big cams and intake + a large external waste gate. hoping for instant turbo spool with hard pull right till red line. using the turbo/cam/intake. to provide a rpm range full of torque.

tidy as always. when sealing the sump becarful of the oil pump bearing exit oil journal this is found inwards of the oil pump to sump sealing surface, it faces down into the sump, and uses unfiltered oil supiled by the oil pump its self. its located just backwards of the crank pulley. ive seen afew blocked with sealant from the sump gasket sealant. this leads to over heating/failure of the oil pump bearing due to poor oil delivery and replenishment of the oil.

a big thumbs up from me. i always try and use fan shrouding these ramp up air flow threw the radiator increasing heat transfer and radiator performance quite a lot. another area to look at is the front sealing edges. the radiator has is a natural air flow restriction this leads to air flowing around the edges (air spillage), this can reduce heat exchange performance massively.

leave some power for the rest of us. haha. boost is in sight. i cant wait to get on mine now. im flying home on the 23rd. hopefully next year we can all get together.

ooh yeh. really nice power curve. well tuned. congrats.

turbo comes in nice and early. what cams are you using on this.

THANKS FOR UPDATING. fantastic build loving the videos. keep it coming. just looked at your dyno graph 272ftlds ooohhh fuck yeh. comes on early and holds it. TIDY figures. congrats.

oh yeh the cars are back out.

great to see this build continuing. i was gutted to read that parts had been sold. That is the engine sensor earthing bank behind the manifold. what i have done is to run an earth return wire to the battery. sharpens them sensor signals up also run a earth return wire 6 to 8mm diameter from the battery to the cylinder-head for the spark plugs, and last one from the battery to the bulk head (this is were most of the in vehicle earths run to). the battery/chassis earth return on this vehicle is poor. what is the difference on the cranks. i was told the 4e marked crank i

I was just talking about this with Burty over messenger. saying i wish it had air con. lots more to come as soon as im back I can get on with the front brake conversion and rear beam swap.

sorry to hear this. stay strong. ill see what i can get for you.