Sam44

I'm also building this today, so as well as running my nock gauge I'll be listening to the engine threw the car stereo using a 2wire vauxhall nock sensor and the super stereo ear kit. Costing around £18 delivered. It took about 1hr to build really easy if you have experience with electronics. If you dont take your time and follow the instructions it's not hard. the key to using this to have all and every engine item/engine bay, and drive train item super healthy to start with, use good noise suppression wire connected to the sensor going to the stereo ear as well as placing the stereo ear device into a insulated box all to reduce phantom knock and have the frequency's your listening to clean. use the device alot at first, even recording the sound over a set rout for around 20 to 30 min. you can use this to hear any changes to health of your engine, gearbox/clutch, drive train and detonation over the length of ownership, recording and listening to how these components age wear. i also use the data logged from my engine sensor along side the sound recording to try and pin point the source eliminating false positives. i even installed a clutch switch so i knew the clutch position and more importantly the time its being operated as well as gear selector/syncro noise. even helping pinpoint some gearbox noises in the process. its very clear even gear and clutch usage can easily be heard. if a problem starts to develop you will become aware of it. at first and only if everything is secure and healthy it does pick up detonation quite easily. the sound of which does change in the upper rpm band. i had to filter out road noise and grease my drive shaft cv joints making the sound easy to listen to and pick up det. we have also used op-amp ic on an additional beard board to eliminate the need/use of battery's running the recorded sound threw the pc software allows you to compare recordings and pin point areas for any further investigation. . im overall very impressed with this little cheap device, but do ask that it not be used onits own to pinpoint detonation, rather use it as an aid to help reduce the risk of detonation, as well as an early warning device of an up and coming component failure.

I've also removed the fuel to clean and inspect inside the fuel tank

Fitting the C4 high output ignition coil. After testing the 4efe coil out kv 21kv, over 3krpm this drops off to 18kv. At 1bar of boost pressure this low kv output is starting to affect the spark duration. And dwell angle ultimately delaying ignition timing impacting egt and the flame propergation in the cylinders. (With air being an insulating element the forced induction\pressure increase affects the spark plugs ability to arce. This with the increased cylinder temps also impacting component resistance) on the ep91 4efe it really starts to become a problem around .8bar. I've also installed the E3 plugs these deal with heat alot better than most heat range 6 at 1bar. The C4 coil delivers 64kv , 85:1 ratio internal windings. A ballast resistor is required to run this coil on the 4efe ignition system because of its low primary winding resistance. I've chosen the higher 1.6ohm resistor for a longer life span of the C4 coil. How the system looks as parts: modified 4efe distributor and added king lead, ballast resistor and 64kv C4 coil. Also in the picture is standard 18kv Toyota coil . And a standard distributor.

I've just installed a Jacobs electronic C4 coil to my 4efe turbo conversation and I was just working out weather I needed to run a ballist resistor with the coil on the Toyota 4efe system. This diagram above shows the additional wiring loom needed to convert a ep91 4efe UK to a Jdm ep82 ECU the distributor ignition amplifier and coil is needed as well as the map sensor off the ep82 4efte these items all swap over. I'll tidy up the above diagrams on ecad software and put them on here.

Looking forward to this.

Yeh great service from me to. Pleasure to do business.

Really very nice work and the spec has got huge. Nice progress. I'm hoping to have some good progress In the next few coming weeks. All my parts have arrived now. Just in time for me to be back at work haha.

Great information and read. The c160 I've just pulled down and compared to the c64\63 is different again lotus 2zz.

Yeh there very rare the factory lsd units these have a different right side drive shaft (shorter) on the starlet so becarfull if you get offered 1 of these. Yep the MR2, Celica, vvti corrola drive shafts are different and the differential bolt holes are different.

The Jdm ep82 GT turbo and ep91 glanza lsd units fit.

What manifold and turbo is this?. The turbo is angled out more on my zisco manifold. I can't see anything wrong in doing this. There's just the port on the rear of the relocation housing to be mindful of.

Is this efi. If so can you do a dtc blink code read out.

Really nice work.

Great information on this page, and this site really has everything needed. This is how I work with turbos the adamb way. Calculations are all very well but the real world contributes to many factors. by the time you've run the tests and found the errors it's time to buy another turbo. Tried and tested every time works for me. The manifold pressure\throttle pre and post pressure difference affects charge speed affecting torque output and peak hp. A!so as stated affecting the turbo shaft rpm. Brad's build using the corolla tubular inlet on a set of high lift cams with a midrange turbo is going to be a very potent mix and really tuning to a fine art. Then we come to temps. Temperature is a by-product of the internal combustion engine and gets into everything. We can either remove it using heat transfer or convert it. Fantastic stuff.

I'll phone him tomorrow for you. Sorry for the reply I've been packing to go back to work.

http://austarletclub.com/index.php?/topic/20297-tf035-4cm-vs-6cm-turbine-housing/?hl=%2Btf035+%2Btd04#entry203492 Some great information on the tfo35

you will not be disappointed. Great weather for moding. It might be worth while to port out the waste gate port on the turbo. As engine breathing is increased these turbos are known for boost creep.

Morning, yeh you remove the filter stud in the center and get the relocation housing big center bolt from Toyota you just need a GT or glanza chassis number. You need the sealing washer also. And housing gasket. The outer three studs are there to stop the housing turning on the center bolt, the filter\weight sits off center. They also give good clamping force. I've not got these fitted just at present. The center bolt does a good job at holding it tight just make sure you aline the housing with the block journals.

I've also been told about using the 4efte rocker cover with the bigger breather outlet. Alot of people seem to have an issue with crankcase pressure affects crank front and rear main seals. I run 2x extra breather valves that open over a certain pressure and vent to atmosphere. I believe there has been people in the past that use a Renault sport oil filter that allows you to run a turbo kit and they use the oil journal that feeds the crank and oil pressure switch to supply oil feed to the turbo. You can find how to videos on YouTube 4efe turboed. I worry about delivery rates and pressure drop at the crank using this method but if you do it right it should be ok. I hope this helps.

Looks class. Visiting the web page now. And hi from the UK.

Really looks well. Is this a factory colour.

Haha. I thought id get that in before some one else did. I'm hoping all is well overseas.

Looking very nice. Are these new if so can you send me a link for the side skirts.

I've been reading threw the notes on the original build of the car and the 4efte power steering pump was used either from the ep82 or ep91 also the bottom mounting bracket with the adjuster to tention the belt . the low pressure pipe from the reservoir to the pump and high pressure pipe from the pump to the steering rack. These parts are needed to allow clearance for the oil filter relocation housing to be fitted.

Ill come on the other site now and have a look.