TimD

Custom Cages..

That's a bit shit, any clues what might have caused it?

I'd take the bracket off before you do anything else it'll make it a lot easier. Just be very careful when doing so, it's just a couple of bolts.

The hole in the picture (to the left of the green plug) is a sensor used by the HVAC system.. Not sure what for. But I don't have a/c or a heater matrix fitted to my car so I figured I could do without it.

I replaced the HVAC sensor with a 3/8bspt to 1/8pt for my defi temp gauge.

Anyone got any clues? I measure it at just over 27mm..

Without wanting to harp on, and sounds like the forum H&S Officer, here are my thoughts on harness bars. When you roll a car onto it's roof and you are fastened in with a normal 3 point retractable belt, your torso is able to bend forward and avoid the roof which is now a lot closer to your dome, cool. But. When you roll a car with fixed back seats and a harness holding your upper body up right, you are only able to bend your head at your neck. Picture that scene for a second, you are helpless as the roof caves in. A harness bar should be incorporated into a roll cage, which protects your face/head/neck/back strapped upright into a seat.

Haha .. If Shorty doesn't want it let me know. I could always use a spare.

Dibs on the tongs ;)

Any aero worth it's salt needs to be fastened to the chassis of the car, not just the bumper. Aero if working correctly will pull the car to the road, that requires a lot of force. Force which I'm certain the standard bumper mounts will not tolerate. The air also needs to exit cleanly toward the back of the car, meaning at very least the splitter needs to stretch back as far as the floor, otherwise any air forced underneath will immediately exit up and into the engine bay.

As above, anyone got one laying around? Not really fussed about condition, so long as it's in one piece it can be scratched or hazy, etc. Let me know Tim

PM me best price including shipping.

I almost PM'd the chap about those wheels, I really like them.

My old one was that colour.. It cleaned up really nicely, so it's a shame you couldn't save the paint. I paid £2500 for mine, it was quick, had all types of things done to it, larger turbo, power-fc, racelogic traction control. This was just before EVERYONE started 'drifting'. They are becoming rare, you very rarely see them on the road, good ones seem non existent.

Mine is from a golf buggy.

Not a boost controller, it's the controller for the gauge.

Take the hose off and get another photo, impossible to tell as is.

-8 is fine.

I dealt with Think Automotive, they have been helpful so far.. Just waiting for my new take off plate for the remote filter setup, that should be here today. If you can wait, I'll likely have it all mounted this weekend so I'll take some photos and post here. I have the remove filter head, that's mounted inside the wheel arch. I 'think' I'm going to need to a slightly larger oil filter, the standard Starlet one isn't quite wide enough in diameter to seal properly.

One problem I ran into with my setup is lack of room around the oil filter and turbo. I want to run an Oil Temp sensor, figured the easiest way to do that would be to get a sandwich plate with a take off for my sensor. On my Zisco Ram Horn and Tongs CT9, the sensor fouls the inlet of the turbo, so I've had to go to a remote filter setup. Something to keep in mind.

Don't rev it with your hand over the turbo..

SPAM!

Awesome, my first car was a Swift GTi. Always wanted to turbo it.

What's in the justy/swift?

Glad it's up and running, really like that turbo setup. Do you have a power graph from mapping? You don't cook calipers.. What pads were in it? How new is the fluid? How much were you braking? There are a lot of variables to brakes, the last one can be more of an issue than people think.