lukEp

lol at the quick steel ^^^

here ya go mate....... the damage we think the gudgeon let go as it the only lodgical reason it could have caused the damage it has without seizing up anything as all big ends were fine Lone engine in lol untill he can buy one..... arnt we good.

Just paid for me and chris

I personally wouldn't bother, the original system is there to stop buildup of blowby gasses and moisture in the engine and it works well. The pcv valve can take alot of stick, it's designed the same way as the hks ssqv the more pressure behind it the more it seals when on boost. But if your going to do it, it need to have the air dragged through it as it won't do it by it's self.

Gutted for ya dude

Looks well tidy mate. Love where ya put the cig socket. I've put mine just infront of the handbreak loving the detail.

I'll send payment over for me and Chris.

Actuator will improve the boost loss but not cure it, have you still got efi pipe and restrictive exhaust? Ct are a small turbo and at higher revs struggle to provide sufficient boost the inlet on the ct9 is very small and it makes it worse when the stock efi pipe is still there.

Sometimes the seal will wear the crank down you should be able to feel the grove if it's bad enough to make it not seal

I think the prob with mine are the sliders stick but when I stripped them they were nothing wrong, no rust or out! But seems the rubber seals on the sliders are really tight.

Mines the same really crap

Are they plug and play or hard wired?

Man up, if they don't like it don't look. Lol I've spent hours just watching lukeSR avatars. ;)

Gutted for you mate.

No worries give me a bell anytime mate.

Cheers lads, got other stuff to sort/fix before I even start this, the bus need 2 driveshafts and my vinyl cutter needs looking at. Which is why ice set myself a start date of Friday ;)

Going to be striping the engine as of the 27th may and I've decide as of yesterday which direction this project is going. For youz that are on the know keep it ;)

We want updates yeyyyyyyy!

Yeh they will be all the same but if your getting second hand panels you find they have been treated differently like exposure to sun and how there washed/polished or weather they have been re-painted at some point, also there will be different shades of that paint code. Mines silver and I know there's at least 3 different shades of the same code. Hope this helps.

You'll need a 10mm for rad and heat sheald 14 for nuts and I find it easier to remover the power steering pump, 12 for oil feed and 19 for the oil feed banjo on the filter housing. There's 2 x 10mm on the water lines to

If you take your head off there should be 1 number per cylinder stamped on each piston crown this number represents the piston size above. If you look on the block face to you will see the same number that's on each piston stamped on the block, we have also had a few engines were it's had 3 x number 2 and 1 x number 3, these tend to be on the Mark 2 Gt engines.

Don't drive it dude what ever you do, you'll find you'll need new carriers, the calipers will prob go again unless there fubard to.

100% oil pressure gauge decent tires. Toto t1r and anti lift kit rear anti roll bar c pillar not important. Might be best getting your bottom end checked and reshelled if it's needed. We check chesh last weekend and it wasn't knocking but his power stroke shell was right Down to the copper and just started to pickup. I will take picture Tomoz of the damage

Transformed it already mate, it did look lower than that at japfest though.

I beleve forged engines are noisy from cold and go quiet when warmed up. But this might just mean it's noisy untill warmed up.