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That would be mega day for sure :D . Some say Dave can map a Motec in an hour from scratch, so would be pretty cheap. Apparently his labour rate is like £50/hour which I don't think is bad at all for the experience/knowledge that your getting.


Is your mate just waiting for Dave to get back from America to get it mapped?


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i think so he was trying to organise a day with another guy wanting his done. he also has a motec dash he needs fitted. So could be a bit of work in it. im going backwards had enough of efi and going to stick with carbs lol.

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Thats a fair amount of wonga! Love those dashes, I'm sure they are pretty simple to fit though because the Motec offers a CAN system.


lol go back and help the planet :p


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Has he?! lol, it wouldn't suprise me to be fair that thing is a bit of an animal as well.

Whats he under on facebook? EPS or Dave Rowe?

Think the page is called EPS Motorsport Pikes peak or something like that.

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  • 2 weeks later...

hey adam im in a bit of a fuss right now was about to buy the 5e engine this morning and firstly was stuck trying to figure out if to buy the 5efe or the 5efhe.... then we realised that the scat rods i just ordered for the 4e wont work in it so had to cancel that thought all together as i can be bothered with buying another engine and having to purchase new forged rods after just purchasing the scat ones...



then more troubles after deciding out of the 5e head and block and saying screw it forged 4e we realised the the wiseco pistons are domed -10 and because of that the compression ratio is going to change... can you let me know how your getting around this as i see u are using wiseco pistons as well


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Received my drill bits the other day, going to crack on with finishing off removing the last little bits of paint on the back, then going to pull the front carpet up.

Designed one of these today as well :)

VelocityStack_zpsad9b3da6.png

Porta-potty for the camping season? Haha

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hey adam im in a bit of a fuss right now was about to buy the 5e engine this morning and firstly was stuck trying to figure out if to buy the 5efe or the 5efhe.... then we realised that the scat rods i just ordered for the 4e wont work in it so had to cancel that thought all together as i can be bothered with buying another engine and having to purchase new forged rods after just purchasing the scat ones...

then more troubles after deciding out of the 5e head and block and saying screw it forged 4e we realised the the wiseco pistons are domed -10 and because of that the compression ratio is going to change... can you let me know how your getting around this as i see u are using wiseco pistons as well

Pm you mate :)

But the jist is the 5E has a high compression ratio standard and considered too high by many for a turbo motor, so the -10cc pistons will reduce the ratio a fair bit to help with knock control.

Personally on the 4E the stock ratio is too low at 8.2:1 so with the -10cc pistons this will make it undriveable on the road, although will be ok for drag racing. You'll need to run a thinner headgasket like the TRD 0.6mm and have the head skimmed to bring the ratio back up :)

Porta-potty for the camping season? Haha

Sure is mate! For the mrs actually :p

Edited by AdamB
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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally got off my ass and done some more to the car, and have finally finished removing all the paint from the rear. Then I removed all the seam sealant which I couldn't get at with the wire brush, using acetone and a scothbrite I went over all the area's around the outside and tried to get into the seam as much as possible to remove any of the glue residue that was left behind.



I then gave it a quick wipe over with a sponge and dried off to remove any dust that has been left over.



http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/2013-07-26135343_zpsd6263867.jpg.html'>2013-07-26135343_zpsd6263867.jpg



After seeing some parts starting to get surface rust after removing the paint, mainly around the strut tops I decided to spray WD40 and wrapped it up to try and keep oxidation at bay.



http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/2013-07-26140927_zps1a2a5cc6.jpg.html'>2013-07-26140927_zps1a2a5cc6.jpg



http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/2013-07-26140931_zps7ff61f88.jpg.html'>2013-07-26140931_zps7ff61f88.jpg



http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/2013-07-26140939_zps622e7ca5.jpg.html'>2013-07-26140939_zps622e7ca5.jpg



Then I removed all the shit that was in the front to the back to give me some space to now work at the front. I need to hoover the carpet before I pull it up as its full of dust, mud and all sorts.



http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/2013-07-26142240_zpsf6a4a72f.jpg.html'>2013-07-26142240_zpsf6a4a72f.jpg



When I was going over the car with a sponge I pulled the rear boot rubber off and noticed that behind had gone pretty rusty and started to flake off, I reckon there's about 2-3mm left of material there before the rust goes all the way through. Can anyone recommend some good rust removal stuff as I think this will be the next job on the list before it gets any worse.



http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/2013-07-26135401_zps6dca5a18.jpg.html'>2013-07-26135401_zps6dca5a18.jpg



http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/2013-07-26135355_zps4da0c4de.jpg.html'>2013-07-26135355_zps4da0c4de.jpg



http://s164.photobucket.com/user/BoobZ18/media/Toyota%20Starlet%205E%20Build/2013-07-26135404_zps63f8bc8f.jpg.html'>2013-07-26135404_zps63f8bc8f.jpg



I think what's happens is that the boost rubber is not keeping water out, and when its rained water has sat behind the rubber and had no where to go so its started to rust.

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This.....is....awesome! Keep up the good work, turbo setup is sex.

Thanks buddy. For some reason I've had something come over me and I just can't keep away from the car atm :yahoo:

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i get like that, havnt done much in the last few weeks. It's a lot of work seam welding a car

I know mate, it's weird, sick an tired of looking at a heap of metal though lol.

Nice work Adam, shame about the rust tho. I used this stuff on all my mild steel bits, seems to have done the job.

http://www.bilthamber.com/hydrate-80

It's had some good reviews to and it's easy enough to apply.

Thanks mate, I'll look into that a bit more tomorrow. My dad swears by something called jenolite but doing a quick google search a lot of people say its not that good and the rust comes back pretty quickly afterwards.

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My cousin and uncle have mg b's and swear by bilthamber products mate. Seen results firsthand and its bloody good stuff. Not the cheapest tbf but seriously good product.

cars coming on lovely now

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