RobSR

Ok, you can recalibrate the sensor and reset the unit, i would try that first of all. The instruction manual tells you how to do it. Where you have you got the kit grounded too also? Have you got a link to the kit you purchased?

Look forward to seeing that, as you say, everyone loves data!

Yup understood, its wise to get the car mechanically sorted before heading to the dyno - it may be the gauge that is the problem, or it could also be showing you an underlying mechanical issue. So was the gauge and sensor supplied as a kit? Or have you used a different sensor? Im not familiar with prosport gauges but some widebands need clean air calibration also. Your instruction manual will say. Is there a leak in the exhaust near the sensor? This can cause wild fluctuations in your readings. Have you ran the car with the sensor in the exhaust before it was powered up? Again if the car is running with the sensor in the exhaust with it not being heated (i.e the wideband not connected to +12v and powered up) it will also damage the sensor.

Welcome! Standard car will run a 15 and you can nip into the 14’s with bolt ons. Look at Zisco if you are in Malta, they have the quickest drag EP’s running under 9 second 1/4’s.

What’s the full spec of the car? It could be a whole host of things. What ECU? What AFR Gauge? Where is the sensor in the exhaust? Was it new or was it used? The more info the better and the better chance we can help

If you’re only after 220bhp stock are fine.

Nice

Yup they are big but like said you can get good idle quality out of them. Youll start pushing the duty cycle up a bit if you ever run E85 etc, so its good to have the headroom. Id be careful of cheaper injectors, they may not be supplied with the correct deadtime data which will then in turn cause issues when mapping.

No probs! I wouldnt recommend trying to run them on an Emanage however unless you are changing/have changed. Also, i may have a spare tucked loom coming up for you. Will keep you posted

Hi Adam, We have direct fit available: https://fiskeautomotive.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Ftoyota-starlet-ep91-id1050x-injectors Cheers, Rob

If you are struggling to find one they are fairly generic so you can get them in Halfords etc

Thats awesome if you were hitting that at 4.5k! Do you have a boost plot?

Glad you’ve got it back mate. Let me know if you need any help with anything along the way

I don’t map Emanage so not familiar with the software but duty cycle is automatically calculated on injector opening time vs engine cycle, so the only way you can really can change it is by changing your fuelling. (Opening time, injector size etc.) Id imagine with it being an Emanage one is before changes, one after, so reference output duty cycle.

Try it and itll make sense, it just doesnt really work at all. The pedal just goes to the floor and not a lot happens lol.

They aren’t anymore unfortunately. Braided lines are fine anyway If it’s spongey there is air in the system still, or another issue. Master cylinder like you say, one of the lines fitted wrong etc. People remove the original ABS because it does more harm than good Callum.

Wow what a read. You need to tax it when you register it and provide DVLA with the MOT cert. amongst other things too. So as zurgie said he is correct. Either way, enjoy the car! Hopefully you find the bits you need to do the swap

Depending on your budget and if you want something a little different I could offer you one of our EFR kits. We haven’t posted the full details on here yet but it spools quicker than a billet TD04 and can make a lot more power too if wanted

Hi Adam, Has the engine let go?! If you are sturggling you can pickup a complete running 4efe for not a lot of money and use the crank out of that.

This is the standard plumbing. As said above tho, you will need the original actuator otherwise it’ll not work.

Nice build

Carbon looks great against the yellow. Pleased to hear you are happy with our fenders! Feel free to send some pics to us and we can post them on our Instagram/FB page

Make Sachin buy it back!

Have you got the Glanza coil and igniter too? If not you will need this. They are both a distributed ignition system yes but they are very different.

Ok so with the way you have done it the below is what I’d do. Firstly the 4efe runs a different kind of idle control valve. Id day you have 2 options, don’t run one, or fit a 4efte one. I’d go with fitting the 4efte one - 12v to one side from the Efi relay and then run the other side to the ECU. (Con 1, Pin 10) In regards to the second question, the 4efe runs a 4-wire lambda rather than a single wire lambda like the 4efte. One of the 4 wires is the ‘heater’ for the sensor. Remove the 4efe 4 wire sensor, and fit a single wire 4efte one and run this to Con 2, Pin 6. Hope that helps