turbo Grant

Pop the rubber boot off see if it's all wet behind it. And stick your head under the dash see if it's leaking inside the car

Should be a plug on the n/s inner wing that went into a sensor on the a/c pipes. Can always pop the senso back in. Can remember the wires to bridge. Can put a multi meter over the sensor to work out the bridge

Sounds like you have air in the system. Check to see if you still have cluch fluid and look for leaks on the slave and master

I can mod yours if you like

Decided I wanted a short shifter over the weekend. Used a paseo gear stock and housing I had laying around. Welded a nice dirty bit of galvo bolt it Nice and short now. This time next week. New engine

Got a tooth brush

It's not the best idea to underseal a damp car. I'm going to wait till the summer to do my 70. Will jet wash the unerside of the car before I do it. And then sand blast a couple of surface rust spots out.

Well a moment of madness struck me today. Decided to change my brake servo for a GT one. I started the job at 9.20pm! And would rather take the car into work than the Honda. Pulled the master cylinder off. It was a bit of a mess Nice leaky master Old servo out, clean and painted up the brake fluid run GT servo ready to go in And boom in the hole, fitted up with a GT master as well. Got it done in the dark and road tested in 2 hours. I have to say it feels 10x better!

Fitted a braided clutch line wooooo

Gutting man. But someone will have a 20v engine

I use loctite premium black silicone from halfords. Ground it to be great stuff! Use it on loads of sumps that I do, even the VW ones! When sealing sumps if it's not spotlessly cleans and free from oil there is no point trying to seal it up. Preparation is every thing when it comes to sumps. Get some brake or carb cleaner and clean all the surfaces down with that so it's absolutely clean. Then run a nice bead of sealer round the edge. When you stick the sump to the engine you want to put it on once. Don't move it around to find the bolt holes if your location studs are gone. Tightening up shou

I might be wrong but I thought the lights wiring ran in throw the bulk head and up to the fues box on the passenger side. Are the 2 fues ok in the fues box?

As fare as I'm aware you need a new core. Owen developments sorted me out a new core for my 35, see where your coming from about not wanting to pay the price for one. Mine was just over the 1k mark :/

Much better than a glanza

I thought the jam manifolds didn't have the bolt castings for the heat shield?

Got genuine Doobie side skirts are a great price if your interested

Now that's just silly

You know the score haha

I've never ever torqued front hubs up lol always do mine FT

Are you using non abs shafts? And dis you move the car withouth the drive shafts in?

Shorty had one for sale. Not sure if he's sold it tho

This thing is savage! Bet it's a monster to drive

Haha this has been on the cards from day one. Just been garthering the bits for the swap. Just a few more bits to get then swap it over on a weekend haha Think it will be well funny as a daily. And the poor 1E is starting to smoke, takes a thrashing just to drive it round haha Not selling the GT haha But I do know of a grex/ greddy oil cooler with stat and relocator for sale ;) This would be funny, I have an LSD

Forgot to say i also picked up a GT box with an ATS LSD

This should sort the fueling out. Lift pump and a 255lph inline pump and some 8mm copper pipe Don't know yet. Might sell the GT haha