richardc9052

It will be easy to make up another set with suitable runner lengths. You would have gained throttle response but lost power over mist of rpm range with that itb setup.

Well you need either a plug and play ECU or a piggyback and get it mapped. If your completely standard and hitting fuel cut then there is something wrong though. You sure the car is 100% standard

I've got one here still in the engine. Rings went so engine was removed and left ever since

Could I recommend an ecumaster instead?

I used the calculator on the jenvey sight. You need 300mm from head to inlet side of throttle body. That will give you top 3rd of 7krpm. 350mm gives you mid to top end, 400 gives mid, 450 bottom to mid, 500 bottom. With the space in the bay you will probably end up 400 max. I went with 330mm but I did plan on fitting trumpets to bring that closer to 400. Never got round to it. 330 didn't bring the power band low enough for me so I'd definitely try to go as long as you can fit.

Take the intercooler piping off the throttle body and then start the car and let it idle. When it hunts up and diwn, place your finger over the hole on the bottom of the inside of the throttle body. If that stops it you need a new wax valve (bottom part that's bolted to your throttle body) If not, try unplugging your iacv which is at the other end of the inlet manifold. Unless you have a vac leak somewhere either one of those is your problem

I wouldn't bother fixing valve float as the pistons are heavy and use cast rings unlike the steel ones on an FTE. So going past where valve float occurs isn't the best idea anyway.

They run well on standard fuelling etc on standard ecu. Had my eu spec 4efe to 0.8 no problems. Might have been me you where talking to... If you plan on staying standard then 4efe turbo is much better. More torque, less lag, better fuel economy. Just cant take them to the fte limiter of 7200rpm as you will get valve float around 6900rpm. Not sure that affects you with an auto box?

as above. the fountain of knowledge only works if you listen to it.

5 speed lsd c56 from an ae111 20v levin. couple running them over here in southern ireland that i know of. Very nice box. Close ratio but still comfortable to cruise in 5th without revving its tits off.

I made them myself and sold the other 2 when I found the one I wanted to keep lol Bear in mind now the 2" straight through is loud when you use the throttle. I would advise a throttle type silencer if you have neighbours that already hate you or police that don't like loud cars lol. I didn't bother but I live in the country side

If you're talking about from the manifold back then 2" is bang on. Mid section being straight through to a back box. Any smaller and you lose top end, and bigger and you lose bottom end. Also adding any extra silencers or a cat takes away from overall power. This is info I gained from the road dyno in a det3 (power curve data based on acceleration in a set gear) not overly accurate but noticeable changes where made and I could feel the difference with buy butt dyno lol Tested 1.75, 2.0, 2.0 with mid box, 2.5, 2.5 with mid box. All stainless from a 4-2-1 20v 4age Mani customised to fit a 4

No, might have been another Richard? I've bought 2 off ecumaster myself and ordered a couple for people in my area. To be honest even like the det3 is so cheap you can use it just for launch control and boost control and it's better (ignition retard, fuel enrichment and ignition cut) and cheaper than any combination of the likes of omex and a random ebc.

Yeah once off payment. Sounds like your getting robbed there!!! Only 10 euro over your yearly payment and I own it.

Nice one. Been praising ecumaster for last 2 years with nobody listening. This might help to change the stale route of over paying for similar products

Did you get gas? I went to my local and they do stargas. 130 for 7liter pure argon and then 50 for top up. Ordered my tig too

Yes you can. Not as easy as it sounds but not as difficult as it looks when the box is split open on the floor lol

The casings are different. You need to use the 6 speed one.

Dipitane is what we use here. Some use it regularly others just use double the dose just to pass nct(MOT) emissions

Use triumph tt600. Cut a standard Mani Down and connect the two using reinforced silicone joiners. Make a throttle cable bracket, make a bracket to hold the itbs, use thin tin plate to fit the Toyota tps to the triumph itbs.

Hearing your insurance problems is like listening to a child screaming over getting the wrong sweets. Still sweet lol. Try insuring in ireland. Anything over 15 years old. Not a hope. Jap? Not a hope. Classic Jap? Not a hope. If you do manage to get a quote it's usually from a UK company. Even then your talking 1000 minimum and I've seen quotes of 15k up to 50k. Tax on your mx5 here would be 650 a year too.

T1rs are terrible IMO. They are a budget tyre with a good name. Rainsport are much better.

They have a torque setting for a reason, over tightening or under tightening will cause them to fail prematurely. They are usually good for 70/80k but I've seen them still going strong at 140/150. Lots of things will change this though as lower offset and wider wheels will cause more stress to the bearings along with stiffer suspension. They are cheap enough and an easy job with a press.

Just as an FYI the runners need to be quite a bit longer to bring the powerband down within 4e territory. If you want to find out the exact length you need there are calculators online. You can also extend total length using trumpets on too of the itbs but the way they are setup gives no room for that. When I made my set I used 300mm long 90deg bends. This meant I had more room for adjustment if needed. In regards to the potential collapsing you can get reinforced silicone hosing that stops that.

I much prefer drums on my starlet for road use. But on a track disks would be much better. Unless you machine vents into the drum cover I can't see any other way to cool them