Flaminsam

Front lower mounts could be cut off and new mounts are available from apex performance at a price of £40 each if you cant unseize them.

Front or rear? I have a set of bc's here ;)

Il be coming along to this. Either in Charls car or if I pull my finger out maybe even in the shedlet we will see. Adam (pick1) has this been put on FaceTube by chance? Maybe even a group made for MFN enthusiast meets?

Joanna you have finally joined the starlet revolution! Better than your old ka! 😄

The Allen key operates a valve inside the damper it's self. This valve opens and closes with the Allen key. It's basically a restrictor for how much oil passes from the top to the bottom of the damper on the stroke. A larger opening on the valve gives a softer setting. Im stripping the coilovers that Akyakapotter sold so il take some pictures and try to explain a little better. The chances are that the oil in your dampers is either too thin or non existent/not enough. Also the d2 coilovers have a nitrogen charge to them to act like a rebound for the large bumps/knocks on the road. The nitrogen

Your engine as every other engine has an optimal working temp. Starlets standard thermostat opens at 82 degrees I believe. The cooling fan cuts in at 91 degrees. If you put too colder thermostat in you run risk of over fueling the engine (cooling the engine further but in extreme conditions giving bore wash). If your pushing for power then a lot of heat will be generated in the process. As we all know heat kills engines so a lower temp thermostat can help. It's all swings and roundabouts depending on what you want from your engine.

Purchased a set of D2 coilovers from nick and the result is a very happy customer. Before even asking for money nick sent me detailed pictures and stayed in contact consistently. He was as honest as honest could be. Gave me tracking numbers and even paid for postage after I've offered to even go halves with him. Brilliant seller and a well respected member. Cheers! 😃

Only just had a catch up on the build toffa, you have been damn busy! Good job!

I would love to run mine at some point. See how it goes when it's mapped etc 🏁

My friend used to run r1-r on his mx5. Took it to the nurburgring (excuse the spelling) and said it handled like it was on rails.

I've had no problems with mine dan. Il have a better idea when I check it for cavitation when I put a gauge on the fpr. 👍

Not really used it that much to be honest. I'm going for mapping this summer on a emb. I have a ZISCO ram horn td04 ex gated, going to be using 323 turbo injectors (360cc) hks filter front mount intercooler and japspeed exhaust. My mapper told me some interesting info. Say your car has fuel pressure of 35psi at atmospheric pressure. You add a bar of boost meaning 15psi of air pressure in the manifold is now forcing the fuel back into the injector. In effect you now only have 20psi of fuel pressure. So you add a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, this will take your fuel pressure to 50psi t

This is the one I've got. It's on the website as I can't link from my eBay app. http://www.jjcraceandrally.com/race/fuel-pumps/automotive-plumbing-solutions-gss342-walbro-255-type-uprated-fuel-pump

Be very careful of the walbro fuel pumps as there are two types. One is high flow, low pressure and the other is high flow high pressure. The low pressure pumps start cavitating at around 45-50 psi. Me myself I've gone for a automotive plumbing solutions one. Flows 255lph at 80psi.

That particular power goes to a block of fuses inside the fuse box in the engine bay. They are red and green if I remember correctly. If not it does look suspiciously like the alternator positive wire with the other plug next to it.

129 at the wheels is good! As said above there are literally hundreds of factors to take into account. Drag of the gears, bearings, seals etc. even the viscosity of the oil in the engine and gearbox.

Could be one of a couple if things. Firstly glow plugs, not too expensive to buy worth changing. Engine earths, ensure you have a good earth to your engine from the battery. The glow plugs do use a lot of current to heat up and any resistance will affect the performance of them. Diesel leaking "back to the tank". Diesels have a habit of leaking air into the fuel system. Air is much easier to suck or pull than fuel in a fuel system on a diesel. The first couple of seconds could just be using the fuel in the filter until the air is expelled (causing lumpy running) then diesel from the tank will

I've always liked alpine myself. A good Japanese radio. I've had various setups back when I had my old cars. To be honest the best "bang for buck" must have been my 10" vibe active sub. This was linked up to my alpine head unit with 4x60w out put and 4v pre outs with a s/n ratio of around 100db. Sounded really clear with just the right amount of bass. Didn't have to have the gain as high on the active sub due to the 4v preout. Would have another tomorrow as I'm a bit of a audiophile lol.

I think its to do with n/a and turbo engines to be honest. The n/a sump is much deeper but not as wide as the turbo sump could be to do with the length of the dipstick. The n/a engines use the cross type crank pulley I believe and the turbo ones use the solid type. Could be something to do with keeping momentum in the crank but don't quote me on it.

Sounds good to me I may even get my starlet out for a drive

You will also need oil filter housing, sump and oil strainer as the sump on a fte is shallower if your going down that route. Or you can get an oil return welded into your original sump. You will need injectors and a fte fuel rail as the n/a fuel pressure reg will send your fuel pressure sky high with boost. You will probably be better off getting a glanza engine loom and ecu to be honest. Many people on here have done the wiring swap. Plenty of people breaking glanzas and plenty of advice around.

I've just had a catch up on the old murx saga. Glad to hear your keeping her now buddy. A civic eg?! I have a nice h22 sat in my lock up for u 😉

Il come along but will be in the vitara

Oh dear. Can have a look next time i pop to the scrap yard if you want. Any ideas what sizes do you need?

Hey, I made my own field harness but it was for a ep82. Just bought a ecu from scrap yard and cut the plugs and wiring out of the loom. Then soldered all the wires and wired in the emb harness. Saves cutting into the original wiring on the car. Il see if I can find some pictures.