rmsnoel

Whats the price for 2013 snail?

Good job. I would love.to see a youtube vid of.this.thing.going.up the.gears once its.broken.in

Man thats going to be one fast n/a..

Is anyone using apexi's afc on there uk 4efe. Ive SAFC 1 but I think the early jap 4efe used a throttle switch and not the potentimeter we have on the uk 4e

Google search gearratio speed calculator and gearbox man has a really good excel speedsheet with graph to show you the speeds in each gear. Also allows you to see what would happen if you changed your diff ratio or fitted a 6speed or even from a different toyota and just used your gt bellhousing. I know that if I conerted to manual and put the paseo diff in my starlet gearbox I would have a very very fast n/a up until the 96mph on the rev limit in 5th. They say a gt bogs down in 3rd and 4th so toyota made 3rd 4th closer to speed them up abit. But they were standard cars and all you lads are r

Lad that doesnt even make sense. Tell me again what your doin, sounds like your putting a non-turbo ep91 engine into a turbo ep82 using a turbo ep91 loom and bodge it to the ep82 dash loom. If so why... Get a 4efe engine, and a 4efe loom including ecu that way you only need to connect the ep82 dash loom by a few wires, like about 8 wires it woukd be so much handier.

Theres a lad on tgtt lookin one of these.

Still here, Tyrone

I have a big tree

I bought clear front lenses for an SR from Toyota for £11 if that helps. I spray the grey bulb holder silver before I fitted them and it looks much better than a standard SR

@ Rbz. Lad I dont think you should do this, especially on a turbo for all you would gain it would be a waste of comfort plus in a turbo you would or could be cornering hard and wishing you had pas. I'll try this out on my uk spec daily driver because Im goin to drain the fluid anyway cause its old and Ive a few litres left over from a auto gearbox oil change. Although Ive seen it said that if you do it you must keep fluid in the steering rack and you must join the two ports together like your honda photo. @ morgey, I dont think the steering will be much heavier but if it is I might try a li

Very interested in that adjustment nut morgey, the stockrodder's remove the powersteering for free power but I suppose they are just driving in circles all day, think they undo the hoses then turn it full lock to full lock. Keep diggin man

I was asking a few guys in work who drive stockcars and they said that they remove powersteering by draining the fluid from the rack and if they took off the pas pump but left the fluid in the rack that it would be stupidly heavy. I wonder if you need the recirculating braided hose or could you just blank off the two ports. If theres no oil to circulate then you couls just blank the ports, does that sound right? I'll this this out on thursday on my uk spec pas rack because Ive been meaning to change the fluid anyway. Fcuk Honda

Always check your timing marks, its free and bent valves can be expensive. Just to add to this thread, about the crank seal leaking on our 4e engines, Ive seen on two engines where the crank seal has actually marked the crank so when you are fitting a new seal, do it carefully, lube it nicely and then rotate engine and check it has a good contact. Plus I wonder if excess crankcase pressure causes the seals to leak? Most vauxhalls leak at the crank because the pvc valve gets blocked and it seems a shame to spend so much to fix the seal when a £5 pvc was the cause. Glad I have a Toyota

Ive opened a few 4efe uk spec engines and they ALL had 4efte written/cast on the crank. Id say a 4efe block and crank with fte rods and other bolt on parts will be the next thing. I did notice though that the turbo's had a bit more space around where the oil filter goes on but a die grinder would sort that out

I think the n/a on is smaller, didnt know they were interchangable, does that mean a n/a one could be an underdrive upgrade for a gt/glanza ?

Early corolla 4-2-1 exhaust manifold or a 4afe 4-2-1 manifold seem to be options aswell. Id love to see our wee v-tec slaying Ep's 0-60 in 8seconds, 130mph topspeed with a janspeed style 4-2-1 bwaap bwaap bwaap.

Im back in a 4efe after a 5year absence and what Ive noticed is ecu mods. Either jdm 100ps or early generation corolla 7200rpm ecu and wiring. Also just seen today someone using the latest bug-eyed corolla ecu and coilpack with a new 6800rpm limit though I'm not sure about power or torque curve. I'm waiting until I find a few more dyno graphs with air/fuel printouts so I can start playing with injectors and apexi safc maybe.

There is a tacho signal wire just behind the dash speedo on uk starlets and that would be an easier, safer option than piggybacking wires like that. Good write up though man.

If the glanza throttlebody seems too much work, the 4afe throttlebody, sensor included is a direct swap for our standard tb and its 50mm same as the glanza.

Just abit of info I noticed elsewhere on the net but the yanks seem to favour piping the breather into the intake system before the filter to help displace moisture instead of it being piped into the manifol as normal. My 1.3 isnt a drag monster so Im happy enough to pump abit of oil around my valves as Mr. Toyota intended but just thought I'd let you guys know

Release fuel pressure first!! Just to add to Idrees post, you can undo the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter, and simply pull off the return pipe to take the whole fuel rail away from the car if you want to work at it like that. And if when pushing the injectors into the new rail you think you might have nipped or damaged it, now is the time to simply change it. Before starting the engine put your key in the igition and turn it to ACC, this pressuries the pump and you can look for fuel leaks. I would wait an hour or so before starting the car, so as spilled fuel clears away and you can sn

Search google for glanza wiring diagrams. There's some real good ones. Plus if you want to take a photo of where the loom plugs are or where they should be we can all help you out. Should be handy, the engine loom that comes through the bulkhead just plugs into the dash loom at both the drivers door and passenger door/glovebox. Have a think whether or not your 4efe had an immobiliser aswell..

You dont need the camber bolts if you have top mounts camber mounts. Camber is adjusted at the top of the shock. The camberbolts aadjust at the bottom which is actually called kinpin incline. You only use camber bolts if you DONT have coilovers. Camber bolts are to correct your camber, not necessaryly to add more camber. Standard bolts are 15mm thick, I just bought 14mm thick bolts for £2 and got 6 degrees of camber. The car was un driveable. 1 degree of camber is what you want, your car will turn in faster to corners etc. Any more than that it will become alittle unstable over 80m