Calum122

They usually come with the kit. To be honest mate, it's just a load of positive and negative terminals with a resistive load on it. Could just make it. The connectors are just your standard 2 pin PC fan connectors.

Missing the resisitive controller that it feeds in to. The colour of the indiglows are variable.

If my Starlet lasts that long then I probably wouldn't get rid of it for sentimental reasons lol

When did the laws come in? I think I just got mine done before it kicked off. Apparently the new law states you can't have a snap off steering wheel any more?

Would love such a clean one like this! Lovely car.

Really clean that! Lovely looking car

So I've never owned the car in its original form, but I wasn't aware of it being a hard line. Some silicone hose to the solenoid ought to be enough to do the trick.

Pretty simple stuff. First check the actuator. Is it aftermarket (HKS?) or the stock. The dual boost mode on these cars are primitive. A the OEM actuator is dual port. The Hi/Lo button actuates a solenoid which determines which port the boost sensor actuators off (which spring preload to use). If there is a hole in the sense line, it will bleed off gases, giving false readings to the actuator, causing the car to overboost and hit fuel cut. If the actuator is aftermarket and adjustable, then it just needs the preload adjusting so it opens earlier. Hopefully that makes sense.

How do you find it with the rack looped? I fitted the EP80 rack to my 82 column. Initially I was a bit drawn by it, but having driven it a little bit now I don't find it so much of an issue.

I was thinking this exact thing myself. 200bhp on a CT9 would be ideal for me. I was mainly thinking the wear on the gearbox and other components why it would be better to just keep the power on the low side. I'm sure I'd get bored of 200bhp pretty quickly.

You undo the sump bung at the front of the gearbox, and fill up from the top until it starts coming out. If it's like the GT box that is.

I sold two for about £40 each. But obviously you will want it rebuilt.

Very nice! How do you find it on the track? Do you find yourself pitting often to let the car cool down?

That's uhhm, quite the car list you've had. I adore the EP82, but I dunno, JDM EK9 would be the dream. Can't complain at the R33 either. I never really felt the R33 vibe personally, much preferring the 32. That was until Banzai featured the 400R and a friend of mine had a 400R at their workshop as well. Then I just fell in love with it. Fantastic car history anyhow, I hope you find a decent EP.

I'd say my end can is a lot longer than yours.

There is my HKS System EP82 if that helps

I bought them all round, but only changed the fronts. I would have thought the fitment is universal all around the car.

Was going to say, £500 is mental for a stock bumper, but 1700... lol

Fensport sell longer wheel studs. I thought they were replacements when I bought some years ago. Went to fit them and they were like 20mm too long. I'm too trashed to send anything back. Two years later I was working on my car and found I needed them. So lucky I kept them. They're expensive, but it is what it is.

MD Performance...jokes. It was a Ferrari Specialist over at Andoversford Industrial Estate. Not Cotswold Restorers. I appreciate people will find it pointless to spend more than what the cars worth getting the bodywork sorted. It ain't about the money, although sure if I can get it done cheaper I will consider it. It's about getting a quality job where the car isn't going to rust where it's been sat in a forecourt with all the paint off. I may give you a buzz though Ollie cause obviously 5K is a little more than I would want to pay for a £1600 Starlet...

For the whole car right?

True, but you're assuming the gauge is accurate and the test was done reliably. Say there is a deviance of +- 10PSI per test. Then Cylinder 1 may be 110 and cylinder 2 may have been 120. So is a difference of 10PSI massive? I'm not claiming to be an expert, but usually when these things go the difference is massive.

That's just what I was quoted. That included any bodywork repairs. But there isn't that much that needs doing. I'd be well happy to pay 2K to sort my car out to be fair. But I just want a proper job done on it. @Jay85 I didn't say shit job, just not concourse. All dings removed and body work fixed for 2K. Paint rubbed back and sorted, and all new seals and what not. Surely the seals alone are going to cost you £1k so you're effectively having the car resprayed for 1K.

As I said, a blow over isn't what I had in mind. Expecting a blow over not to be a concourse respray. I ain't knocking it, I am literally saying that's a good price. Compared to the 5K I've been quoted.